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From paradise to hell into paradise again...

Route:
Goa Mumbai Ahmedabad
Kilometers covered till now: 4130
Kilometers left: approx. 1000-1500
States covered:13
Time elapsed: approx. 10 weeks
Time left: approx. 4-6 weeks
Dear friends!
The
Incredible Journey Of A Little Boy From Holland has passed its biggest
part. The end seems to come closer and closer, although experiences
still blossom and everyday seems to be a unique one. The time covered
till now, has made place for a panorama of different experiences,
whether I had to enjoy or endure it.
Let's begin with
Goa,
beginning of January, which was a relaxing experience (although it's a
place with almost more tourists than locals...). And believe it,
Goa isn't
just about chilling on the beach under palm trees. At least not for me.
I've enjoyed this beautiful piece of land, especcially by bicycle,
through green tropical forests, centuries-old cathedrals and ruined
cities, abandoned forts standing on steep cliffs, and much more. The
last day I had the luck to meet another Koga-Miyata World Traveller,
including the very owner of this vehicycle! We had some nice talks and
he told me about all the hotspots on the road to Mumbai, a stunning
hilly landscape, sometimes without any form of civilisation. Thus I
begun on a challenging route of about 750 km to Mumbai. It had been my
choice to take only small, rural roads through the hills, which seemed
to be a hard work under a 35 degrees sun, with steep paths, sometimes
only existing of big rocks. But the landscape was stunning, and all
kinds of colourful birds and butterflies accompanied me on my trip. I
had the luck to come everyday in a small village/ town where there
often was a hotel, although it was sometimes something I'd rather give
to the animals (very basic, and dirty...).
One
day I had travelled for about 20 km on a single way up and down a
hilltop, when I suddenly had to stop my cycle. Before me there was a
gap of about 100x100x100 m in the road, under me a deep canyon. Without
any warning... It was caused by the monsoon floods already some months
ago, so there was made a small 'path' through the gap leading to the
other side, but it seemed unrealistic to carry my bicycle through it.
So I had to make all the 20 km back up the hill before I could take a
shortcut to the next village... The 14th. january I arrived in Mumbai
by ferry and entered this incredible metropole along the famous Gateway
of India, the same way King George V did 2 centuries ago.In my
imaginations Mumbai would be a kind of hell: terribly polluted, dirty,
chaotic and with endless slums. But in this part of the city (Colaba/
Fort) the opposite seemed to be truth. It's a very relaxing, good
maintained part of the city with impressive colonial architecture. I
spent in total 1 week in this interesting city which has so much to
offer. Whether it is a good museum, the endless bazaars to lose
yourself in, or the charme of wandering at
Chowpatty
Beach during sunset, watching kite and cricket matches and eating the famous
Bombay 'bhelpuri'. And of course I couldn't have missed the impressive
Elephanta
Island,
which houses some exceptional big sculptures, among them a rare
Trimurti.Here I also met a couple of friendly Dutchies, which I spent
some time with.
But
the real Mumbai experience would not be complete without plunging into
the Bollywood scene and experiencing the glamour and glitz of the
Indian film industry nearby! Thus I had the 'luck' of being asked on
the street to act as a figurant on the next day's shooting. I had no
idea what I could expect of this, since people have reported different
experiences. But although it was more like staying a whole day and
dancing sometimes on the dance floor of an ultrachique and trendy
nightclub, the scene for a straightforward B-film, it was an
interesting experience after all. So, look out for the Bollywood film
*'Only for you'* when it's being published in about 6 months!
However, this world of arrogant superstars and glamour is quite
interesting, how far they also seem to be separated from the real world
of slums and poverty...
After
a week full of new experiences my cycle was calling for me... So on 20
january I started early in the morning, to avoid the traffic crowd. It
took at least 3 hours and 60 km to come out of this monster city, with
endless slums, white tower estates and huge glitzy shopping malls. The
extremes of
India only seem to get bigger. And at the end of the day you can imagine how my face looked: dark black...
After 6 days I have arrived in Ahmedabad, in the state of
Gujarat,
having covered 4130 km till now. Although polluted and chaotic, it's an
interesting city with nice mosques and temples and some striking
LeCorbusier buildings (standing in high contrast with the old
architecture). Beside that, it houses the Sabarmati Ashram, where
Mahatma Gandhi lived for 15 years. A very peaceful place, where you
literally can feel the 'Mahatma' (Great Soul) living still here. And I
had the luck to meet a local, which boasts a place in the Guinness
World Book of Records for recognizing someones blood group, just by
looking into its face. Incredible! Again a very interesting meeting,
having deep-going discussions about the Indian culture, identity and
globalisation.
Since everything is going so incredibly relaxed, I've got oceans of time. My planned arrival in
Delhi in March, is just about 1000 km from here... I'm looking forward to getting some more helpful in the Social Centre in
Varanasi,
after my cycle tour. But before that, a paradise called *Rajasthan *,
is awaiting me... Probably going to be the most beautiful part of my
journey! All the best! Reactions are welcome; just put them on my website in the 'Letters' section.
With kinds regards, Christopher Baan
www.christopherbaan.nl
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