After a long time without news, here's again a little sign of life from a colourful India full of unexpected things. In the approximately 3 weeks which have passed in the mean time, there has again happened much. Too much information actually to compress in this little newsletter. But I will try my best...
 
First, I would like to inform you that I've changed my plans a little: my Darjeeling trip has been dropped, because it's quite a remote area to reach by bicycle and beside that, it would be too cold up there. Maybe I will visit this wonderful place later.
 
From Bodhgaya, the place of Enlightenment of the Buddha, the place where I - again - met many new friends, I started cycling to the north. There I wandered through the extensive ruins of the oldiest and biggest university in the world, in Nalanda. After that, I decided to go through a more rural area, further in the direction of Shantiniketan in West Bengal. But I should have thought about that twice... It pointed out to be a very disturbed area, where the naxalites live in the hills - a group of very well armed Maoist rebels. So that day, after a long trip over a sandy road (hard work for Koga), I bumped up in a very small village. Without hotel or guest house, without restaurant or anything... So I went to the police station to ask if they had a place for me to stay. As expected, they where quite surprised. For them it was quite amazing to have a foreigner staying at their police station. I really was the first foreigner who visited this place, so you can image that at every place I took a rest, to drink some chai and eat some pakoras, there was a huge group of people gazing and staring upon me as if I was an alien.. Sometimes I got nervous, especcialy because they didn't understand I wanted to have some privacy and rest, but trough the time you get used with it.
Surprisingly enough I got invited by the police officer-in-charge himself. We had some good talks about everything you can imagine. And the next day - believe it or not - I got excorted by a police jeep with 6 armed policemen, all over my journey that day. It was a very strange experience, I felt nearly like a Dutch politician! Even for the police, the naxalites are a serious danger in the Indian states Bihar and Jharkand, because of their mass, their good equipment and organisation.
Also the next night I was 'forced' to stay at a police station - this night even more primitive. But it was a time worth experiencing!
The next day I - fortunately enough - could enjoy the 'luxury' of good accomodation and food in the pilgrim city Deogarh, before making 2 very very long days of 130 km each day. Finally, on 3rd December, I reached Shantiniketan, a nice, green and peaceful place which houses among others Rabindranath Tagore's University and quiet gardens to relax.
 
After Shantiniktan I continued my journey to Puri, in the state Orissa. Again some long days, but it's especcially the feeling when you've made it again, which gives you a lot of energy to continue. Where there is willpower, there is a way. Short before Puri, I discovered a nice national park on the map, so I decided to take a day for going inside the park. And there it pointed out that my Lonely Planet wasn't reliable anymore... Suddenly, the Indian government had decided to push up the entry fees for foreigners to a terrible Rs. 1000, which is about EUR 20... Well, I really wanted to go in, so now money didn't play a role anymore. However, I have been quite angry on these officials who put these Rs. 1000 in their own pockets, I expect...
Anyway, the National Park I visited, Bitarkanika Wildlife Reserve, was well-worth this whole-day boat trip through a stunning great area of mangrove forests. On the way we spotted wildlife, like crocodils, kingfishers, deer and large colonies of herons. Very impressing!
 
After 2 very relaxing days, I finally arrived in Puri. I had already heard many good things about it. But even then it was like arriving in a whole new world.
As one of India's holiest cities, it houses some great temples, a real taste of India (tropical ambience, colourful, friendly people, incredibly tasty food), and a wide sandy beach along a blue sea. It was like heaven for me, just to arrive here by bicycle, feel this fresh ocean breeze in your face, looking over a crowded, colourful beach, and in the mean time enjoying a sweet lassi with 'Indianised' jazz music on the background. So... Time to take a small rest, to relax on the beach for some days and to gaze upon the architectural and cultural wonders of Orissa.
 
In the mean time, my lovely Koga Miyata has done a tough job, while still alive and in reasonable condition. Till now, I've covered 6 states through India and made a little more than 1500 km in 3 weeks (600 of them in November, for the interested sponsors). After having had a refreshing break in Puri, I will probably cross the land in the direction of Bhopal. We will see what kind of other surprises this lovely India has to offer me...
 
Although it's still a little time to go, I already would like to wish all of you an inspiring Christmas full of love, and an exciting new year full of opportunities!
 
Lots of warm greetings
from Christopher Baan